Visiting Sylhet

Each and every expanse of Bangladesh abounds in greenery, but none can compare with Sylhet. From spinning hills covered in lush green tea gardens and gleaming paddy fields to olive marshlands and reserved forests, Sylhet seems to have been blessed with every possible shade of green one can imagine.

Bisnakandi is a village situated in Rustompur Union under Guainghat Upazilla. This is where many layers of the Khasi mountain meet at a single point from both sides. Flowing from above is a high fall. Adding to its charm are dark clouds hugging the mountain in the rainy season. And flowing underneath towards Bholaganj is a branch of the Piyain. Along the stream flowing from high up in the mountain come huge boulders that are deposited and mined in Bisnakandi.

Much like Jaflong, Bisnakandi is mostly a quarry. Winter is not a suitable time to visit Bisnakandi due to mechanised mining and stone-laden boats and lorries. The absence of such nuisance makes the rainy season the perfect time to visit the beautiful Bisnakandi that coalesces the charms of high mountains, sinuous rivers, graceful falls and dancing clouds.

Ratargul is the only freshwater swamp forest in Bangladesh. Despite its existence over a vast stretch of swampland in the not too distant past, the swamp forest now occupies an area of only two square kilometres. A dense forest comprising mostly native hijol and koroch trees, Ratargul offers a sanctuary for different species of birds, monkeys, snakes and other reptiles.

Ratargul is in proximity of three rivers. Flowing respectively from the south and the east, the Changer Khal and the Kafna meet near Ratargul and head north towards Guainghat under the nomenclature Guain. Once upon a time, the swamp forest occupied the banks of all these rivers. The water of these rivers makes its way into the forest and leaves it marooned under 15 to 20 feet water in the rainy season. With the bottom half of the dense forest covered underwater and the top half visible with its multitudes of shades falling on crystal-clear water underneath, Ratargul makes for a sight that can soothe even the most disinterested of eyes.

The best time to visit Ratargul Swamp Forest is early in the morning or early in the evening in the rainy season. That’s when one would be enthralled by the existence of the local fauna including different species of birds and monkeys. As the water recedes with the departure of the rainy season it becomes muddy. And in winter it is possible to roam about the forest on foot.

Despite the loss of its former splendour due to unrestricted mining and crushing of stones, Jaflong is still a ‘must-see’ destination for tourists visiting Sylhet. Flowing from the north Khasi mountains, the river Dauki enters Bangladesh under the name ‘Piyain’, along the bank of which lies the spectacular Jaflong. About 62 km north-east from Sylhet city, Jaflong is in the East Jaflong Union under Guainghat Upazilla. Visitors can hire boats to go to the Zero Point and see the beautiful hanging bridge over the Dauki. Just across the river on the western side are the villages Sangrampunji and Nakshiapunji, which are accessible through ferries or rented boats. Just beside Nakshiapunji is Jaflong Tea Garden which is a top tourist attraction.

On the way to Jaflong visitors usually take a recess at Tamabil, which is about 7 kilometres away from Jaflong. It is mainly a land custom and immigration check post, behind which is a war cemetery, where martyred freedom fighters were buried in 1971, along the Bangladesh-India border.

On the way to Tamabil is Jaintapur Upazilla Sadar where tourists usually stop for a while to see the ruins of an ancient royal palace. It was not until 1830 that the independent province of Jaintiapur was invaded and brought under the British Empire. Some megalithic monuments still stand testimony to the rich past of the Khasi tribe. Not far from the Upazilla Council is the Citrus Research Centre boasting of gardens with local vegetation such as tezpata, sathkora and many other fruits. Adding to the beauty of this research centre is a plethora of cascading waterfalls flowing from the Khasi mountains of India. Situated between Jaintapur and Tamabil is Sreepur which is a popular picnic spot. Travelling through Jaintapur to Tamabil in the monsoon is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Lush green tall Khasi mountains stand upright beside the road. The stunning beauty of white clouds and gushing waterfalls flowing from the green mountains fascinates locals and tourists alike.

Though tourists come in large numbers in winter, one has to visit Jaflong in the rainy season to see the real beauty of the falls cascading from lush green mountains. As Sylhet witnesses an extended rainy season the perfect time to visit Jalfong is between April and October.

On the Vanugach-Komalganj Road about seven kilometres from Sreemongol town is the entry to Lauachora National Garden. It is an evergreen rainforest with excessive precipitation. Tall trees with their lofty branches and soaring foliage make for a unique cover for the forest on a sunny day. Lauachora is one of the seven safari parks and 10 national gardens in Bangladesh. An area of 1,250 hectares from the 2,740-hectare West Vanugach Reserve Forest was declared a national garden in 1996.

Upon payment of a certain amount of fee, one can visit the forest. There are 30-minute, one-hour and three-hour trails that can be walked with the help of trained guides. A wide variety of plants, orchids, insects, birds and other animals can be seen.

Even though it is not very large in size, this forest is a sanctuary for rare species of plants and animals that include endangered species of hoolok gibbon, phayre’s langur, as well as a wide variety of apes, cats and snakes including pythons, in addition to parrots, magpies and many other birds.